Maps of Burma now known as Myanmar

Burma trip report - words by Susan - photos by both of us.

Burma trip report

When we moved to France in 1994, we didn’t mind winters in the Dordogne.  After all, they were milder with less snow than Toronto.  But we now find them a bit too dark and so enjoy getting away to somewhere sunny.

Although we have enjoyed several stays in South Africa, for the winter of 2010-2011 we decided to combine visits to family in Canada and Australia in an around the world trip.  Since the aim was to spend the Christmas holiday in Australia, it made sense to start in Canada, and then go west.  As we had each always wanted to go to Burma, and this seemed the year to do it.  That meant we would be there the last two weeks of February when it would be starting to get hot but still comfortable.

Many people have asked us why we wanted to go to Burma.  We had never travelled in Southeast Asia, and various friends suggested we go because it was ‘Asia as it used to be,' before massive development.  But   before deciding to go, we had to deal with the fact that the country is ruled by a military dictatorship.

The choice is   between boycotting the country, and trying to make it more open and less isolated.  Aung San Suu Kyi, the great pro-democracy leader, for many years asked tourists not to go and spoke in favour of the boycott.  However, she has begun to change her opinion recently.

We found that we agreed with Thant Myint U, grandson of U Thant, former Secretary General of the United Nations.  In his history of Burma, “The River of Lost Footsteps”, he suggests that if the country were less isolated, and there were more trade and tourism, perhaps the conditions for political change would emerge.

We didn’t want to go with a group, but because of our unfamiliarity with Asia, we were a little nervous about trying it completely on our own.  On our first visit we would be seeing the major sites – Yangon, Mandalay, plus the historic temples of Bagan, the romantic Lake Inle – and a few days on a river boat sailing down the Irrawaddy.  After reviewing proposals from a number of agencies, we agreed on an itinerary with a private guide, arranged by  Goodnews Travels, and were very impressed with their service

Visas were not as difficult as we had expected, even though we were actually in Australia when we applied.  They came through in several days, and we were ready to go.

We flew from Perth to Bangkok –and spent the night in Bangkok at the Shanghai Mansion Boutique Hotel.  A recommendation from our Perth friends, and we were very happy with it.

 http://www.shanghaimansion.com/bangkok-hotel/bangkok-hotel.html.

 It’s in Chinatown, and probably farther away from central Bangkok than some other hotels, but we enjoyed the location. Here we were introduced to the Asian custom of greeting guests with a cool drink, a damp towel, and someone to check you in, rather than a long wait at the check in counter.  A good start.  We spent about 24 hours in Bangkok, getting used to Asia, although not to the size of the city, negotiated a meal with no words of Thai at all, and then took a flight to Yangon (formerly Rangoon)

Arrival in Yangon – Park Royal Hotel

The toughest Burmese bandit can never understand it.

In Rangoon the heat of noon is just what the natives shun.

They put their scotch or rye down, and lie down.

We arrived Saturday evening, passed through immigration quickly and were met by our guide, Myo, ( say – mee-o) and our driver, bearing flowers, a very welcoming touch.  We were surprised that our hotel was so big and modern.  William, the director of the agency, was there to meet us and hand over our tickets for planes, hotels, cruise, etc. while Myo checked us in.  He thanked us for visiting the country at a time when many people still will not come, and assured us that to the best of their ability they had booked non-government hotels, flights, etc.

William also had presents, which we hadn’t expected at all.  We each received a longyi, (the long, wrap around skirt worn by men and women), and a traditional Shan shoulder bag.  Harry immediately asked how to tie his longyi, and so in the middle of the hotel lounge he had his first (of several) lessons.  This was in fact an exceptionally good idea on the part of the agency – it was in a sense ‘permission’ to wear the longyi, which we did fairly often during the trip.  Harry particularly found it much more comfortable, and cooler, than regular clothing, and found he was usually the only non-Asian man wearing it wherever we went.  It attracted attention, smiles, and positive comments as well!

One major surprise in our first few hours in Myanmar was the number of  comments made about the government – the state of the roads, the lack of freedom in the elections, etc.  We had been warned not to bring up the Generals, or The Lady,(Aung San Suu Kyi)  but William and Myo spoke fairly openly about the current situation.

(From now on I will refer to the country as Myanmar, ( pronounced – mee-an-mar ) as    that’s what everyone there now calls it.)

 Sunday 13 February Private guided sightseeing Yangon

Up early for   breakfast in our hotel, and our first experience of the International Buffet we found in most of the hotels; Chinese, Indian, western, even some Myanmar specialities. Then on   to Shwedagon Pagoda. We had of course seen pictures of the Pagoda but hadn’t really understood the size and splendour.  It was a gorgeous day with deep blue sky, and there were lots of people, but few foreign tourists.  A perfect start to our trip.   Myo checked our birth days so that we could recognize our own particular shrine.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shwedagon_Pagoda

By now we were getting tired and hungry, and were offered a trip back to the hotel for lunch, or lunch out.  We had no interest in eating at the hotel, and so went to Feel restaurant, a buffet place, mainly for locals, although it seems that guides with private guests often bring them there.  I can’t say we were very impressed with Myanmar cuisine, which had very tough meat, and curries with not too much flavour. We had read that it combines the worst of Chinese and Thai cooking.   Myo ate with us and explained the various dishes.  Then took us back to the hotel for a nap, (and a swim) greatly appreciated.

Somewhat recovered from the morning’s touring, we met Myo and driver in the lobby and went off for our next stop – the Chaukhtatgyi (Reclining) Buddha. It seemed a little strange at first, in a steel ‘warehouse’ area, with lots of scaffolding around, but the covering at least protects it from the weather.  We were amazed at the sophistication, and the size, supposedly 70 metres long.  Again, hardly anyone else there, other than Myanmar locals.

who is Back to the car, where we were happy to find that the driver had ‘wet wipes’ for our feet as shoes and socks are not permitted in the pagoda, and then to the Royal Barge on Kandawgyi Lake.  Good photo op and interesting to see people arriving for a large wedding celebration.  But more interesting was the ‘fair’ a kind of trade fair, with cars, beer, balloons, and lots of music. We took a photo of the cars on sale, for our friend a fan of the huge Paris   Motor Show.

Now to the Botataung ‘First sacred hair relic’ Pagoda, home of hair relics brought from India 2500 years. Bombed by the RAF during WWII, it was a heap of blackened ruins, and then re-built. During the renovation more relics were found, and it is now, in the words of the tourist pamphlet ‘a happy blend of the ancient and of the ultramodern.’ I don’t know that we found any ultramodern – we actually preferred the vendors outside the temple, selling snacks and souvenirs.; Much as we are not fond of pigeons here, it was quite lovely seeing a beaming toddler feeding them by the side of the road